Ishite-ji: Temple No. 51 of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, the National Treasure Niomon Gate, and the Legend of Emon Saburo

A Shikoku Pilgrimage Sacred Site Reachable on Foot from Dogo

Walking east from Dogo Onsen for a short while leads to Ishiteji, the 51st temple of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Officially named Kumanosan Kokuzoin Ishiteji, it is a temple of the Shingon Buzan sect whose principal image is Yakushi Nyorai. With many visitors praying for New Year visits and warding off evil even within Ehime Prefecture, it is a temple integrated with Dogo tourism, visited not only by pilgrims but also by hot spring travelers. According to the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Association guide, the location is 2-9-21 Ishite, Matsuyama City, with parking available and no temple lodging.

Gyoki, Kukai, and the Origins of the Temple

According to temple records, in 728, Ochi no Tamazumi, governor of Iyo Province, recognized this land as sacred and enshrined Kumano Junisha Gongen. It became a chokuganjo of Emperor Shomu, and in the following year, 729, Gyoki carved Yakushi Nyorai, marking the temple's beginning. At the time of its founding, it was called Anyoji and belonged to the Hosso sect, but in 813, Kukai (Kobo Daishi) visited and changed it to the Shingon sect. The Pilgrimage Association guide also records its founding in 729, its founder as Gyoki Bosatsu, its principal image as Yakushi Nyorai, and its sect as the Shingon Buzan sect. Layers of ancient faith have accumulated at this temple.

The Name "Ishiteji" and the Legend of Emon Saburo

Ishiteji is also associated with the rebirth legend of Emon Saburo, who is considered the progenitor of the Shikoku pilgrimage. In 892, when the first son, Okitaka, born to the feudal lord Kono Okitoshi, received prayers at this temple, a stone bearing the words "Emon Saburo reborn" appeared from his clenched palm—and it is said that the temple came to be called "Ishiteji" after this stone. According to the Pilgrimage Association's explanation, Emon Saburo, who was a wealthy farmer, began the Shikoku pilgrimage following Kobo Daishi, fell ill during the pilgrimage, and was reborn into the Kono family holding a stone with the words "Emon Saburo reborn." The name of the temple itself is tied to the pilgrimage story.

The Corridor-Style Approach and Places of Prayer

The approach to Ishiteji forms a corridor style lined with Nakamise souvenir shops. In the Pilgrimage Association guide, the Kariteimotendo, believed to bring safe childbirth and children, is also introduced. Returned stones are piled around the hall, and it is said that names and words of gratitude are engraved on them. Other highlights mentioned include the washing stone in front of the gate, also known as the "Bridge of Not Crossing," the Rakugakido, and the Amidado. The Amidado is located to the left upon entering the Niomon gate, and it is guided as a place visited by many seeking prevention of dementia.

The National Treasure Niomon Gate and Kamakura-Period Temple Buildings

The highlight of Ishiteji is the National Treasure Niomon. Featuring a 3-bay, 1-entrance multi-story gate design with an irimoya-zukuri hip-and-gable roof and honkawarabuki tiling, the Iyo Koseki-shi records its construction in 1318, conveying well the characteristics of Kamakura-period architecture. The Pilgrimage Association guide describes it as having a height of 7m, a frontage of 3 bays, a width of 4m, and a two-story irimoya-zukuri structure with honkawarabuki tiling. The wooden standing statues of Kongo Rikishi enshrined in the gate are said to have been created by the Unkei school around 1240, and these are also Important Cultural Properties. In addition, the precinct is lined with Important Cultural Property buildings such as the Main Hall, Three-Story Pagoda, Bell Tower, Gorinto Pagoda, Kariteimotendo, and Gomado. The oldest bronze bell in Ehime Prefecture is noted to have an inscription dating to 1251.

Traces of Literature and Temple Visits

Within the precinct, haiku and poem monuments are scattered, such as Masaoka Shiki's poem "Namu Daishi Ishite-no-tera yo ine no hana," allowing visitors to trace literary footprints. Walking from Dogo Onsen toward the approach and viewing in sequence the corridor-style path, Nakamise, Niomon gate, temple buildings, and prayer halls, one realizes that the story of the Shikoku pilgrimage, the temple's architecture, and the present-day places of prayer are linked in continuity. It is a temple one would want to visit quietly while checking worship etiquette, events, and local information.

Note: Visiting hours and event schedules are subject to change. When visiting, please check local and official information.